Phew, what a day of ups and downs. I realize there is a major difference between finance [downs feel much worse than ups feel good] and bike traveling [ups feel much better than downs feel bad].

Up: Everything is dry in the morning and I am ready to go by 7:30AM

Down: I am short of water and the John Day River I slept at is somewhat foamy [I know it can be natural], after filtering the first bit it tastes super soft [I know this can be natural] - I don't feel good about it, and leave with my remaining 500ml

Down: My shifters don't work anymore, they feel completely loose, no tension, increasing the tension doesn't bring any help - incredibly weird since all was good when I brought Klaus to bed last night. Great that my day will start with 1000m of elevation gain. Nonetheless, it's still below freezing so way too cold for me to get a real fix done and I hit the road.

Up: The watch dogs from the adjacent property come by while riding up to the road and say goodbye.

Neutral: Morning haze provides roughly 20m of visibility

Up: By 9:30AM the sun regains power and kicks out the haze within 5 minutes. What a breathtaking moment. Where there was just thick fog a minute ago, now rough rock formations build a beautiful canyon around me.

Up: Time for breakfast and to warm up in the sun. Once ready I have a look at the shifters. Klaus apparently warmed up in the sun as well. The shifters work just as new again, without me doing anything. Either I've gone completely mad or Klaus is trying to fool me! No joke, this morning the shifting cables were at least 1cm too long in terms of tension, now everything is absolutely fine. The only reasonable explanation that comes to my mind is temperature. I mean there is easily a 20 degree difference between night and the warmth of the sun right now, still it doesn't make any sense to me. Especially since this is not a crazy temperature difference. [I was never really good in physics but shouldn't it be at least the other way around? Night cold = things shrink and vice versa? Anybody having an idea? Let me know!]

Up: Riding the rolling uphill is so much faster with shifting

Up: 30 minutes ago, I was barely able to feel my fingers and toes. Now I am riding in T-Shirt and even catch me with thoughts about riding topless. In the shade it's still freezing but climbing in the sun is the complete opposite.

Down: I am super thirsty and have 200ml left. It's not critical of course [I am about 30km away from the next village] but still unpleasant

Up: My route takes a short cut on gravel. After a few kilometers I hear water rippling - just next to me a tiny little stream in the ditch, very clear water. Instantly I slump down a liter of the fresh water and fill up two more. All my problems solved. I play some load music and spontaneously dance for 5 minutes [to Meaningless by Charlotte Cardin, no specific reasoning].

Down: My gravel short cut doesn't work. After about an hour climbing, I reach an impassable gate, I try an alternative route, again an impassable gate. Damn it. It's all downhill to the village Fossil that I was trying to cut out with this route.

Up: I have a coffee and another hot dog in Fossil. To my surprise all of the small, remote villages I crossed so far have their good old mom 'n' pop shop that are usually quite well stocked. [kind of pointless that I stocked up so much food in The Dalles]

Down: I have to climb up again out of Fossil and add a total of 20km and 400m of elevation due to the detour.

Up: 20km smooth and fast downhill. So much fun!

Up: Beautiful canyon to finish the day [just like in the Western Movies] and pitch tent again next to John Day River [still foamy]

Up: I eat the 8 year old Tillamook cheese that was gifted to me by Maria and Brian in Nehalem for dinner, it tastes incredibly good

Worrying: It's supposed to snow tonight, already had some icy parts on the last miles that were super slippery, hope the conditions will be fine tomorrow